Saturday 31 December 2016

once a Sunday school...


 If I can get away with saying "churchy looking".... well hey, I just did. I can't find that much about this little building. It faces onto Elgin Street and bears the number 275. It's an annex to the adjoining St. John the Evangelist Church on the corner of Somerset West. To its immediate south, a Wine Rack, Ministry of Coffee, and the Fox & Feather  occupy shopfronts in old Harmon school/apartment building. 275's paved-over, vest-pocket  front yard serves as a smoking square for the women of The Well / La Source as often as not.

Though it looks small from the front, the annex extends backward the full length of its parent church — the stone foundation hints at turn-of-the-century construction.

 The church. not surprisingly, was built first. Goad January 1888 (sheet #52) shows "Grace Church (Episcopal)" without an annex. Goad 1912 (again sheet #52) depicts the annex and labels it a Sunday school.

 The church is now St. John the Evangelist. This snippet of history from their website roughly agrees with Goad's information. You can view the entire page here.
"...In 1889, a furore [sic] erupted in St George’s Church which was to have a dramatic effect upon the life of St John’s. A small core of thirty people left St George’s over a dispute centering on the liturgy, and this group bought a piece of land at the corner of Elgin and Somerset Streets from James McLaren of Buckingham, Quebec. Mr. J. Hames was hired as the architect and construction began on a new Anglican church. The total agreed cost of the new church was $20,000 and the cornerstone was laid on October 21, 1890.

Within three months, a small congregation was worshiping in the unfinished structure. The first baptism was held on May 15, 1890, when the Rector, John Gorman, christened his son, John. At the annual Vestry of 1891, Father Gorman agreed not to tamper with either the theology or the liturgy of the parish without a two-thirds agreement from the parish. In March, 1891, the church was completed and consecrated as Grace Church..."
The former Sunday school is now a multi-use space. On Friday nights it's home to Rahim's Salsa.

171 Waverley


"The Golden Triangle" is a newer name for an older neighbourhood. Robert Smythe dates the usage to the early 1970s (see his "Deep Cut") — reflecting a greater local pride (and price) in that part of Centretown bounded by Elgin Street and the Canal — this following a flurry of renewal activity in the 1960s.

 Claiming its share of older, plus-size residences, the Triangle's real charm lies with its many more modest homes, like the one in the picture above. Prim and balanced, like a cat with her tail wrapped around her feet, 171 Waverley's dictum could well be "Let nothing stick out" — even the paired dormers can't be seen from where we stand. Notice the little Palladian-style window in the gable (the earmark of so many McMansions these days.)

 #171 dates from some time between 1901 and 1909. Might '01 describes the lot as "vacant" while Goad 1902-'12 shows the house (and its neighbours) fully built. Might 1909 lists "Heins Donald, mus tchr."

 Mr. Heins may well have been 171's first occupant. Born in England, he settled here in 1902 while in his mid-twenties. Classically trained, he not only taught...  as befitted a musician of his day, Heins sang and played piano (and the organ and the violin.) He also composed. Dismayed by Ottawa's underexposure to classical music, Heins quickly established our city's first professional orchestra, filling a cultural void and providing work for local musicians — at something other than teaching! You can read more about Donald Heins here.

Sunday 25 December 2016

"230 Ogilvy Charles"


 Well here's an unexpected find. I was glancing over the listings for Lisgar Street in the 1901 Might Directory (my idea of fun, haha!) and this entry caught my eye — "230 Ogilvy Charles" — no comma, no other notation. Could it be?

 Born in Edinburgh in 1861, Charles Ogilvy came to Canada with his family two years later. He opened his first dry-goods store in 1887, at 92 Rideau Street. In 1907 he moved shop to 126 Rideau, into a building designed by the noted Ottawa architect W.E. Noffke and his partner George William Northwood. Charles Ogilvy Ltd. (or simply "Ogilvy's") grew in physical size, number of outlets, and reputation through the first half of the 20th century.

 A fire at the flagship store in the dying days of 1969 marked the beginning of a slow decline for the business. Simpson's, Eaton's and The Bay proved overwhelming competition for a store  renowned for its well-made but timelessly unexciting fashions. Ogilvy's  closed in the '90s, and sat empty for years thereafter. In 2013 the building was carefully demolished pending the reconstruction of its facade as part of an expanded Rideau Centre.

...le temple qui fut, April 2013

\
deuxième vue, April 2013

 And what does this have to do with 230 Lisgar Street? Was "Ogilvy Charles" the local retail legend or just some dude with the same name? A bit of nosing around vindicates the former.

Charles Ogilvy, 1901

 In 1901, "230 Ogilvy Charles" was still eight years away from opening his resplendent temple of retail at the corner of Rideau and Nicholas. Here are a few lead-up dates for the house on Lisgar...

1884 — Charles Ogilvy, a clerk, is boarding at 80 Albert St.
1887 — Charles opens his first dry-goods store.
1888 — 230 Lisgar appears on the Goad map as a perfunctory, 2½ storey brick building, a narrow house on a narrow lot, with the usual summer kitchen out back. See image below.
1892-'93 — Miss Florence Benson of 230 Lisgar is teaching voice and piano, "concert engagements accepted." She will eventually marry, move to Montreal and sing in a church choir.
1897-1901 — Newspapers and the Might Directory confirm Charles as residing at 230 Lisgar, indeed owner of the namesake store. The Ottawa Journal further confirms a Mrs. Ogilvy [Lily Allison] again as of 1897, active with the King's Daughters and Sons, a Christian philanthropic organization.

230 Lisgar appears as the right-most of six similar houses, upper half of image.

 During his Lisgar Street tenure,  Charles was operating his store out of its old location at 92 Rideau.

 The Ogilvys eventually quit this austere little house for another in Sandy Hill — just as plain, but closer to the store. #201 Wilbrod (white house, middle of image) has sat empty, its doors and windows boarded for about a decade now.

 Back in Centretown, the Faloon family operated a boarding house at 230 Lisgar from the 1930s into WWII. In 1935 a visitor from Denver Colorado mistook a door at the top of the rear stairs for a washroom. She fell to her death, breaking her neck and smashing her skull. On March 26 1940 the house served as a polling station in that year's Federal Election — the Liberals won.

 The building has since been split into two apartments. I can't pin down the date of the strange brick extension at the front of the building — I'm sure it seemed like a good an idea at the time.



 For those interested, there is a Facebook page devoted to Charles Ogilvy Ltd. Ken Elder has written a terrific little history of the store, pdf here. Oh, and Andrew Elliott has an awesome appreciation here (be sure to click on his links!)

 The Ogilvys spent their final years in a lovely house at 488 Edison Avenue just west of Churchill Avenue.


the Ottawa Journal




the Ottawa journal, Jan. 19 1944

Requiescant in pace.

Thursday 22 December 2016

182-184 Lisgar Street


 Sitting between an unmatched pair of red brick walk-ups, #182-184 dates to the 1901-1909 time-frame, according to the Might Directories. Goad shows a building resembling this one in place as of 1912, when the lot sat behind the Protestant Orphans' Home. The latter faced onto Elgin and spanned the block from Lisgar to Cooper. Urbsite's article "Coming Soon" includes a photo which reveals 182-184 peering out from behind the north end of the orphanage.

Friday 16 December 2016

Sandy Loses a Southam

[Confusion alert — This article contains references to a man called Shirley and a woman called Andrew.]

 If one were to say anything unkind about the newspaper scans at Google (The Ottawa Citizen) or Newspapers.com (The Ottawa Journal), it might be that the quality of the photographs is horrible —  each newspaper being horrible in its own way. Those of the Citizen are sketchy and over-contrasted, like Xeroxes of old, while the Journal's are blobby, murky and dark.

 Still. we must be grateful for the information they provide. Here's an example of something (sketchy and over-contrasted) that appeared in the March 2nd edition of The Ottawa Citizen in the year 1910.


 To say that 381 Stewart was "beautifully situated" was an understatement. The house stood second to last on the north side of the street, on the eastern edge of the Sandy Hill plateau, on a cliff overlooking the Rideau River. The "country beyond" would have been the Janeville section of Eastview, plus a handful of houses claiming to be Overbrook. Which is to say it was mostly meadows and hay-fields, marked by meandering streams and dotted with woodlots.

Scrolley (scrolly?) things
 Picture quality notwithstanding, we can make out a late-Victorian cross-gabled
confection of gambrel roof, dormer window and sun-catching bays, nicely tarted up with decorative trim and festive awnings. The front of the house boasts a two-tiered verandah in the classical style,  properly pedimented, held up by four bold columns, each topped (it would seem, if you squint) with an Ionic volute (scrolley thing.)

 At a time when some Ottawa realtors were lying through their teeth to sell their "high and dry" floodplain lots, the guileless copy of this ad is refreshing — no frantic appeals to the reader's vanity, no outrageous claims  — (the walk from #381 to the Charlotte "car [streetcar] lines" was indeed less than two minutes, probably closer to one.)

 This wasn't just any real estate ad — integrity of wording was requisite. Appearing as it did on page 10 of 12, nested amid a motley grab-bag of news stories and ads for spring tonics (it was nearly spring, after all), this placement announced the sale of the house of Wilson Mills Southam, son of the Citizen's owner, newspaper magnate William Southam.

*     *     *

 The history of Sandy Hill plateau during the 1800s can be oversimplified thus...
1) Early decades (yes, I'm being vague), logging.
2) Mid-century, farming (mostly by squatter market-gardeners) and
3) Closing decades, real estate development, including a lot of high-end stuff.

 The last-mentioned home-building spread southward and eastward away from the city core, across the plateau to reach its limits (Laurier Avenue and the Rideau River) around the end of the 19th century. The 20th would watch as two World Wars, the Great Depression and the expansion of Ottawa University conspired to divide many of the once great Sandy Hill homes into multi-unit rentals, while others were demolished to make way for apartment buildings — or in the case of #381, to be reduced to a  patch of grass and pavement.

 But now we are ahead of ourselves.

 I won't pretend to know why Wilson M. and Henrietta (Cargill) Southam decided to sell.  Had a demon moved into their basement? Did it smell bad? Did visions of their children falling off the nearby cliff haunt their dreams? Or had they foreseen their once-stellar neighbourhood slouching toward mere charm?

 On pages 205-207 of Martha Edmond's Rockcliffe Park: A History of the Village we find this...
"Two of [architect] Allan Keefer's houses, Lindenelm and Casa Loma, are now the residences of the ambassadors of Spain and Austria respectively. They were built adjacent to each other in 1911 for two brothers, Wilson and Harry Southam. Their father, founder of the Southam publishing dynasty bought the Ottawa Citizen in 1896 and sent his two sons to run the paper. Wilson, the eldest son, came to Ottawa in 1897 to take over as managing director. Harry followed in 1901, to become Secretary-Treasurer. In 1909, they bought adjoining land from the Keefer Estate and put in a private road."
 So there you have it. The Wilson Southams were early-adopters, part of a vanguard abandoning Sandy Hill for "the Village." They left their quaint but stale-dated Queen Anne house with its killer cliff, its shallow Rideau River and its view of proto-Vanier for "Lindenelm," a Tudor Revival manse atop a gentle cliff, overlooking the mighty Ottawa River with a breathtaking view of the Gatineau Hills.

 But didn't Wilson, with his downtown newspaper job, miss being less than two minutes walk from the streetcar? Not at all — the Southam families had access to the extended Rockcliffe line which ran past the very bottoms of their respective gardens (now the Rockeries) and shared a dedicated, sheltered "Southam stop" — indeed, a shorter walk than the old Stewart Street slog.

*     *     *

 Well then, bully for the Southams I say. With their money and foresight I'd have done the same. But what of 381 Stewart and its whimsied charms? To our eyes, the Citizen's photo reveals a lost treasure. To the Southams the house likely reeked of demons 19th century fussiness. Hey, it's not easy staying hip.

 Here's a view of #381's immediate neighbourhood, per Goad 1912, roughly the time of the Southam's move to Rockcliffe. I've boxed their house and property in red.


 
 (Notice the old Cummings Bridge, still connecting to the island with its general store, post office and outlying sheds. I waded out to Cummings Island this summer, hoping to find any remaining foundations but was promptly chased off by nesting Canada geese. Thankfully I was drunk, otherwise I might well have panicked.)

 In the above plan, the Southam house is sited on a block designated #105. The Goad directory plan for 1895 (seventeen years previous) shows no construction on block 105 nor on any of the adjoining blocks. This refines our understanding of the rate and extent of home-building on the east end of the plateau.

 The Might Directory for 1901 does not list #381, though the Southam's neighbour-to-be, one William L. Scott, was already installed at #383. Might 1909 does list the Southams at 381. Martha Edmond gives us 1897 as the year of Wilson's arrival in Ottawa — thus a possible timeline takes shape, with Wilson Southam perhaps taking an apartment while his house was being built in Sandy Hill, a house his family would live in for at most a decade.

 The house was bought by one Robert M. Cox, "pioneer lumberman," originally from Liverpool.  Mr. Cox died in the house in the summer of 1919 at the age of 83.  He had married his second wife little more than a year previous. His name survived him through his business — for example, Robert Cox & Co. at Hope Chambers supplied "birnut" wood (patented process cured Quebec birch made to look like walnut) for the floors, doors and trim of the Duncannon Apartments (1931.) As a respected businessman, he contributed generously to the War Effort and was seen at all the right funerals.

 I don't know how the widow Cox fared after her husband's death, but by 1923, the house was occupied by the Conservative politician Sir Henry Lumley Drayton (1869-1950.) He served as minister of finance under two prime ministers and then ran for Conservative leadership (but came in last.) You can read about him here.

 One might think that Sir Henry's tenure would have been enough to earn 381 Stewart the title "Drayton House," but by the thick of World War II it was being called Wolsley House. The name may have been conferred, for whatever reason, by the military who had taken over the place. Here is a patchy chronology gleaned from the pages of the Ottawa Journal.

1926, February 20 "Burnham Boilers are Good Boilers — The residence of Sir Henry Drayton is heated by two Burnham Boilers," etc.
1936,  July 17 Madame Jan Pawlica[1] held a party for her guest Miss Mary Nixon Bull of Winnipeg. The afternoon's entertainments ran "delightfully late" and were attended by "members of Ottawa's younger set."
1940, July 23  "Juliana Renting Shirley Woods' Home — ...Shirley Woods[2] confirmed a story in The Journal [that] the Princess was moving into his home on the shores of McKay Lake[3]. He is vacating the premises shortly and will live at one of his houses, 381 Stewart street, now occupied by Victor Podoski, Consul General for Poland..."
1942, Nov 28 "...the Navy Minister... [has] authorized the acquiring of the former Shirley Woods home at 381 Stewart...  as quarters for the Wrens, girls of the Women's Royal Naval Service."
1943, March 2 ".. $20.000 was paid the estate of Col J.W. Woods for a property at 381 Stewart street, also for the use of the W.R.C.N.S. [the Wrens]."
1945, September 18 "...Council also approved a Board of Control recommendation that the city take over Wolsley House, 381 Stewart street, occupied by Wrens, to house veterans and their families."[4]
1948, February 23 "Betty Jane Dixon, 381 Stewart street" is crowned in a skating competition.[5]
1949, May 6 "War Assets... for sale at Ottawa, Ontario... [including] 381 Stewart Street"
1955, October 13 "Mrs. Herbert A. McDougall[6], 381 Stewart street died at home after a long illness..."
and finally,
1961, February 22 "Fire Calls, Tuesday [Feb. 21]  ... 5:30 PM — 381 Stewart, pot of grease on stove, no damage..."

[1] wife of the Polish Consul-General
[2] a dude
[3] limestone construction on 10 acres, built 1938 — and that (as my mother would say every spring) is why we have tulips.
[4] This happened to several houses in Sandy Hill. The post-war housing boom would make these efforts look quaint.
[5] a serviceman's daughter?
[6] wife of the Lt.-Col., mother of Nadine (a woman, styled Princess Andrew of Russia)

 Say what you will, 381 Stewart Street was, in its time, a storied address.

 After the great kitchen fire of 1961, #381 faded from public attention. At some point during that decade it was demolished to accommodate the Rio Vista Apartments at 400 Stewart Street.

the Rio Vista, Ottawa Journal, February 1971 (check the swans)

 All that remains of lot 381 is a small parking area in front of the apartment building...

via Google Maps/ Street View
 By my estimation, the house stood on the spot here occupied by a row of parked cars, just below the middle of the picture. An audacious 2013 proposal to fill this gap with an even taller apartment/condo building has yet to see fruition. I reproduce an article from the Ottawa Citizen in its entirety
 "By David Reevely, OTTAWA CITIZEN December 3, 2013 6:00 PM

OTTAWA — A Montreal developer’s proposed 31-storey building in east Sandy Hill overlooking the Rideau River would be the first of a new generation of towers in the area.

The local councillor called the plan the latest brick in a wall of buildings blocking off the view of the river.

Rio Vista Apartments Inc. already owns a luxury apartment just east of the proposed new tower at 400 Stewart St. That tower rises 25 storeys from the nearby riverbank but only 21 storeys from street level.

The new 226-unit building — Rio Vista’s application calls it an “apartment,” though in planning jargon that can mean condominiums or rental units — would look 10 floors taller than its nearest neighbour, already one of the tallest buildings in the area...

They’d be joined by an underground garage, six storeys deep, to form one complex. The hundreds of extra parking spots would doubtless lead to more traffic in Sandy Hill, but it would be divided between Stewart and Daly Avenue on the property’s north side, thanks to two entrances and exists.

“I’m not happy with it,” said Coun. Mathieu Fleury. “We’re building a wall against the water.” There’s no path along the riverbank there, no practical access to the Rideau, and this’ll make things worse, he said. He’s glad to see plans to build on a surface parking lot, but not just anything will do.

“There could be a nice [building] within the existing development rules,” he said, which max out at about 12 storeys. “Thirty-one storeys is massive, no matter how you look at it.”

The new glassy spire would be more like the modern condos in Centretown and Hintonburg than its heavier-looking concrete neighbours from the 1960s and ’70s. Rio Vista’s application says politely: “Aside from providing a more contemporary architecture and built form, the proposal will also provide a better relationship with the existing slab buildings, by allowing many advantages (i.e. improved light, air and views).”

But that comes at a cost, mainly in allowing Rio Vista to build a tower nearly three times as high as the zoning on the property allows.

It also means giving up the prospect of a small park on the property, which is officially in the city’s plans but has never happened. Rio Vista says it’s waited for more than 10 years for the city to make an offer and it’s never come, so it’s time to get on with a development.

The city generally favour putting tall buildings up against natural edges, like major roads, rail tracks and rivers, where they have fewer neighbours. That makes sites like this one, on a dead end and next to the Rideau, an attractive spot. Developers’ interest in sites like this has also grown as parking lots and rundown buildings in the downtown core have been snapped up and built on: there’s already a proposal for 24- and 27-storey buildings just across the river in Vanier.

The steep slope up from the Rideau on its west bank will make the 31-storey building look even taller, Fleury said. There appears to be nothing special about the site that warrants the extra height. It’s not close to a transit station, not in a redevelopment district. It is in a residential area two blocks south of Rideau Street, right next to Sandy Hill houses.

The application is new so there is no date set for planning committee to consider it."